Salutations!
I’ve got a delightful green baby blanket pattern to share with you all today! This blanket was originally published on my other, soon-to-be defunct blog site and I needed to get it transferred over here before I flipped the off switch. In prep for the transition though, I’ve reviewed and refined the pattern so it’s updated and even easier to read!
Inspiration
This blanket is clearly influenced by my love for the Nintendo video game series The Legend of Zelda. The beautiful triangular motif is unmistakably the Triforce of Power, Courage and Wisdom, the unity of the hero Link, Princess Zelda and their battle against their evil enemy Ganondorf.
I designed and crocheted this blanket for my youngest son who was born in 2016. Though I did make this for him, I wanted it to be a reflection of something that I adored and wanted to share with him. I wanted it to be simple but catching. The magnificent shade of green yarn I choose is definitely catching, but not overly powering. It’s the perfect shade of green for a boy, especially one who I can envision raising to be an adventurer and saver of worlds like Link. I love the patterned arrangement of the triangles and feel like it came together beautifully for a fun and easy stitch pattern.
This blanket has withstood the test of time as well! Two years later and it hasn’t pilled, stretched, faded or been torn. Even through all the washes, it’s still so soft! I hope your little adventurer will enjoy this blanket as much as mine does!
Triangle Motif Baby Blanket
Crochet Pattern written by Amanda White of Yarnanigans, Copyright 2016
All my patterns are available for free. Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or publish this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern on your site or social media, please link back to my site. You may sell items produced using this pattern provided you give credit and do not use my copyrighted photos for your product listing.
Materials
- US size H/5.00 mm crochet hook, I recommend this ergonomic crochet hook set from Clover
- Caron Simply Soft (100% Acrylic yarn, 315yd/288m, 6oz/170g) 3 skeins in Pistachio
- scissors
- tapestry needle
Gauge
- 4″ x 4″ square = 17 stitches and 7 rows
Finished Size
- 32″ wide and 42″ tall
Abbreviations
- Ch – chain
- st – stitch
- sts – stitches
- Dc – double crochet
- Fdc – foundation double crochet
- sk – skip
Stitch Definition
Foundation Dc (Fdc):
- Start with a slip knot on your hook. Ch 3. Yarn over, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over and draw through 1 loop.
- Yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice. This completes 1 foundation double crochet with chain at the bottom.
- *Yarn over, insert hook under the 2 loops of the chain at the bottom of the stitch just made, yarn over and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
- Repeat from * for the instructed amount of stitches in pattern.
Pattern Notes
- Pattern is worked back and forth in rows.
- Beginning ch 2 in each row doesn’t count as a stitch. This means the ch 2 is only used to add height for working the first stitch of the row and not in the overall stitch count of the row.
- The first dc in each row is worked in the top loops of the last dc of the previous row right next to the turning ch 2.
- Ending stitch counts for each row are provided at the end of the row instructions in bold font.
- Dc border is added along the vertical and horizontal edges for finishing.
Pattern Chart
Each x in the pattern chart represents an opening in the blanket that is worked by doing a ch 1 sk 1. Each white block in the pattern chart represents a dc st. When working the pattern, dc stitches are worked in either the ch space or both loops of the dc st from the previous row. Be mindful that you are working into all the stitches in the pattern chart. It can be tricky to easily miss working in a stitch before or after the ch 1 space.
Written Pattern Instructions
Blanket
Fdc 121.
Row 1: Ch 2. Dc in each fdc st across to end of row. – 121 dc
Row 2: Ch 2. Dc in each st across to end of row. – 121 dc
Row 3: Ch 2. Dc 5, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 12 times **. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 4 to end of row. – 38 ch, 83 dc
Row 4: Ch 2. Dc 6, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times, dc 2, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 5 to end of row – 34 ch, 87 dc
Row 5: Ch 2. Dc 7, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times, dc 4, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 6 to end of row. – 30 ch, 91 dc
Row 6: Ch 2. Dc 8, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times, dc 6, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 7 to end of row. – 26 ch, 95 dc
Row 7: Ch 2. Dc 9, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times, dc 8, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 8 to end of row. – 22 ch, 99 dc
Row 8: Ch 2. Dc 10, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once, dc 10, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 6 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 9 to end of row. – 18 ch, 103 dc
Row 9: Ch 2. Dc 11, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 6 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once, dc 10, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 10 to end of row – 22 ch, 99 dc
Row 10: Ch 2. Dc 12, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times, dc 8, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 11 to end of row – 23 ch, 98 dc
Row 11: Ch 2. Dc 13, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times, dc 6, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 12 to end of row – 24 ch, 97 dc
Row 12: Ch 2. Dc 14, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 3 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times, dc 4, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 4 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 13 to end of row – 25 ch, 96 dc
Row 13: Ch 2. Dc 15, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 2 times**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times, dc 2, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 5 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 14 to end of row – 26 ch, 95 dc
Row 14: Ch 2. Dc 16, * **[ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] once**. Dc 9, [ch 1, sk 1, dc 1] 12 times, dc 9.* Repeat from * to * once, then repeat ** to ** once. Dc 15 to end of row – 27 ch, 94 dc
Row 15 and 16: Ch 2. Dc in each st across to end of row – 121 dc
Repeat Rows 3-16 5 times or until you reach your desired length. Do not fasten off.
Border
- With your hook still in place in the last st of your row, turn the blanket clockwise with the left vertical edge facing upward.
- Ch 2. Work 2 dc sts in each dc row end. Work down until you get to corner.
- Work 3 dc st in corner st, turn blanket clockwise and work dc in each fdc stitch across to the next corner.
- Work 3 dc st in corner st, turn blanket clockwise and work 2 dc sts in each dc row end until you get to the corner.
- Work 3 dc st in corner st, turn blanket clockwise and work dc in each dc st across to the last st before beginning ch2. Slip stitch to top of ch 2.
Finishing
- Fasten off. With tapestry needle, weave in ends.
Thanks so much for stopping by and have a yarntastic day!
how many chains if you can’t get the foundation dc thing? thank you
Hi Tricia! If you want to use a starting chain instead of the FDC, you’d chain 2 additional stitches for a total of 124. When you turn to work back across the chain, do your first dc in the 3rd ch from the hook. Work dc in each st across the chain and you should have a total of 122 dc sts at the end. You’d start with Row 2 at that point and continue with the pattern as written. Hope that helps! Amanda
thank you so much! i can’t wait to make this blanket!!
Hi Amanda,
On Row 2, should I:
Ch 2 and begin dc in the same stitch as the chain, making one chain post and 122 dc
or
Ch 2 and begin dc in the next stitch, making 1 chain post and 121 dc?
Thanks!
Hi Taryn – Thanks for your question! I usually work my first dc in the next stitch, making the beginning ch 2 count as the first dc. I’ll make that an addition in the pattern notes for clarification.
But the pattern says that ch2 does not count as a stitch. Could you clarify? Thanks!
Hi Krissy! Yes. I misspoke in the reply you replied on. The ch 2 does not indeed count as the first dc in this specific pattern. To clarify, normally when working a pattern the ch 2 at the beginning of dc row counts as a stitch in the overall stitch count of a row, unless the pattern has stated otherwise. This is stated on the Craft Yarn Council site here. Because I created the pattern to use the FDC row at the beginning, I have an exact count of 121 dc stitches to work across on row 2. If the ch 2 counted as a stitch, I’d have to skip the first stitch of row 2 and put my first dc in the 2nd stitch of the row. If I worked across the row this way, my ending row stitch count would be 120 dc and 2 ch (which in this case counts as the first dc) to technically total as 121 dc for the row. As I work back across on row 3 and get to the end, I’d need to work my last dc in the ch 2 space, which is sometimes hard to spot and opens the possibility of missing working that stitch and declining row stitch counts. For me personally, I like using the ch 2 at the beginning of the row to add height for working my next row. I also prefer to work my dc in the top loops of the dcs instead of in the ch 2. Instead of skipping the first stitch of a row, I work the dc in the top loops of the last dc stitch from the previous row right next to the turning ch 2. Aesthetically, it makes for straighter edges and doesn’t leave gaps or holes. When a pattern states the ch 2 doesn’t count as the first stitch, it’s really just a preference of the pattern writer and a note for those working the pattern to be mindful of where and how they work across the row so as not to lose count. I hope that makes sense.
Hello, I was wondering, if I wanted to make a bigger blanket, how many additional fc would I need per repeat? Thank you.
Hello Desiree! To make a wider blanket, it would be an additional 23 FDC stitches per triangle motif you decide to add. If your gauge matches up with the pattern (4″ = 17 sts), then each motif will add approximately 5.5″ to the width of the blanket.
For example, if you wanted to make a crib size blanket (45″W x 60″H), you’d need at least 13″ added to the width. 13″/5.5″ = 2.36 motif repeats. You’d then need to round up so you’ll have 3 additional whole triangle motifs. 3 x 23 = 69 stitches total you’d add to your beginning FDC row for a total of 191 stitches (122 + 69). Hope that makes sense! It’s a very versatile blanket pattern that you can expand to fit any size you need! Let me know if you have additional questions or need help. -Amanda
Thank you so much! I can’t wait to make it! My 11 year old loves everything Zelda and he requested this blanket. I’ll let you know how it goes!
Is it possible to change colors in this pattern? Like to do the classic Triforce colors with the empty space of the blanket and the inner triangle being green, and the outer triangles being gold? I imagine this being a lot of yarn changes and not a very easy idea.
Hi Claudia,
I suppose it could be possible to change colors in the pattern. You’d need to carry both colors throughout the project, working the active yarn over the inactive color as you go, then changing colors in the last step of the dc stitch (the YO, pull through 2 stitches). It certainly would be interesting to try and would make the triforce more authentic to the video game series 🙂
Do you have a printer friendly version of this?
Hi Jessi,
You can use printfriendly.com to turn the pattern post into a print friendly PDF